In this archive episode of Cider Chat, we go in a barrel cellar in Prince Edward County, Ontario, with Ryan Monkman of FieldBird Cider and Lee Baker of Keint-He Winery.
This interview took place in June 2018 during a cider tour Ryan sponsored across Ontario. Together we explore the craft of barrel-aged cider, including techniques like bâtonnage, lees aging, and malolactic fermentation.
If you’ve ever wondered how cider develops complexity in oak barrels or how to manage oxygen, sulfur, and fermentation this conversation offers a practical look inside the barrel room.
Inside the Barrel Room
The cellar itself was unforgettable.
- Built from repurposed highway underpasses that creates a quanset hut room
- Gravel floors with exposed soil
- Natural humidity influencing the barrels
As Lee explained during the visit:
Terroir doesn’t stop in the orchard, it continues into the cellar.
Temperature, humidity, oxygen exposure, and seasonal changes all influence how cider evolves during barrel aging.
Listening to Fermentation
Barrels speak learn how to listen to fermentation.
Ryan describes how fermentation sounds change as yeast works through sugar:
- Early fermentation – low rumble
- Active fermentation – rapid popping
- Near completion – slow pops
What Is Bâtonnage in Cider?
Bâtonnage is the process of stirring the lees (yeast sediment) back into suspension during barrel aging.
The word comes from the French word baton, meaning stick, referring to the tool used to stir the barrel.
In cider making, bâtonnage can:
- increase mouthfeel and body
- build texture and richness
- encourage yeast autolysis
- integrate flavors during barrel aging
During this visit, Ryan demonstrated the technique using a long stainless-steel baton inserted through the bung hole of the barrel.
Key Takeaways for Home Cider Makers
Oxygen Is the Biggest Risk
Barrels allow small amounts of oxygen to enter.
To avoid problems:
- keep barrels topped up
- minimize ullage
- monitor cider regularly
Too much oxygen can lead to volatile acidity (vinegar-like flavors).
Lees Add Texture and Flavor
Instead of racking immediately, cider can age on the lees.
Benefits include:
- greater mouthfeel
- increased complexity
- development of creamy textures
Bâtonnage Builds Complexity
Stirring the lees encourages autolysis, where yeast cells slowly break down and release compounds that enhance flavor and body.
Malolactic Fermentation Changes Style
Malolactic fermentation converts malic acid into lactic acid.
This process can:
- soften acidity
- create creamy texture
- introduce buttery or caramel notes
Because apples are naturally high in malic acid, managing this process can dramatically influence cider style.
Barrel Room Glossary
Bâtonnage
bah-tohn-YAHZH
Stirring lees during barrel aging to increase texture and complexity.
Lees
leez
Sediment made up mostly of dead yeast cells left after fermentation.
Autolysis
aw-TOL-uh-sis
Breakdown of yeast cells that adds richness and mouthfeel.
Ullage
UH-lij
Air space between the cider and the barrel bung.
Malolactic Fermentation
mah-low-LAK-tik
Conversion of malic acid into lactic acid by bacteria.
Élevage
eh-leh-VAHZH
The aging and maturation phase after fermentation.
Ripper Method
A titration test used to measure free sulfur dioxide (SO₂) in cider or wine.
SO₂ Calculator
Wine Business
https://www.winebusiness.com/calculator/winemaking/
Contact Info for FieldBird Cider
- Website: https://fieldbirdcider.com
Contact for Lee Baker
- Instagram Lee.baker.winemaker
Lee Baker was the winemaker at Keint-He Winery in Prince Edward County at the time of this interview. He is now at Rosehall Run Vineyard in PEC!
Mentions in this Cider Chat
- Cider Salon Hungary April 18
- Totally Cider Tours
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